I've coveted a few Deer & Doe patterns for a while now - Sureau and Reglisse dresses are on my (lengthy) 'to make' list, but for some reason I'd never really given the Pavot jacket more than a passing glance. Until about two months ago, that is, when for some reason it became ALL I COULD THINK ABOUT.
Naturally it zoomed right to the top of the list!
In case you're unfamiliar with this pattern, it's a very sweet mid-season, unlined coat/jacket with rounded collar. The pattern suggests using a twill, gabardine or coated linen, and luckily I found some lovely maroon baby gabardine in my local fabric shop that seemed like it would work nicely. Initially I wanted to avoid red or purple tones, as I was worried about hair-clashing, but after a fruitless internet search found nothing better, I decided to throw caution to the wind. It looks ok, right?
|Uh-oh! Bright sun equals disappearing facial features.|
As the coat is unlined, I decided to bind all the seams on the inside. This is quite an achievement for me! I'm a bit of a corner-cutter usually, and if I can do something simpler and quicker another way, most of the time I will. Not this time! I said no to my overlocker, pushed aside the pinking shears, and bought 12 metres of cream bias binding. And boy, was this an undertaking! Most of the seams are pressed open, which meant two lots of binding to stitch on each seam, and because I went with a contrasting colour for the binding, I was constantly changing the thread on my machine.
Totally worth it, though - I love how it looks. The only seams that aren't bound are the pockets, as I didn't fancy negotiating binding around those curves.
I love love LOVE the covered buttons on this coat! Although I was a numpty and put the buttons and buttonholes on the wrong sides. I swear, I studied numerous versions of this coat online to check how they should go (this isn't the sort of thing I know off the top of my head), but clearly something went wrong inbetween my brain registering the information and actually putting it into action. It's not a dealbreaker, though - it just surprises me every time I go to do the buttons up.
Secondly, I'd take the pockets out of the side seams, and instead add some patch pockets to the front. The positioning of the pockets in the seams feels a little awkward at the moment, like I have to stretch my arms further back than normal to get my hands in comfortably. It'd be fun to come up with a nice little design for patch pockets.
This was not a thrifty project at all, but that's ok - I'd usually spend a little more on a spring coat or jacket than I would on a dress, for example. Here are the sums:
Pattern = £14.16 (incl. delivery)
Fabric = £12
Buttons and binding = £6.38
Total = £32.54